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W/C
= Toilet
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CWM
= Clothes Washing Machine
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DWM
= Dishwashing Machine
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LAV
= Bathroom Sink
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HWT
= Water Heater
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LT
= Laundry Tray
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CFT
= Claw Foot Tub
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FD
= Floor Drain
Top
Water Heater
Maintenance?
(with permission by Jon Johnson) Once a year: 1.) Turn off
electric power or gas before doing anything. Damage will result if
element comes on when tank is dry. Turn of water supplying HWT. Note
that a time switch is NOT a safe place to turn off the electricity! Do
it from the circuit breaker, or pull the fuse. 2.) Drain the water
heater (HWT). After HWT is drained, and hose is still attached, open and
close the inlet valve a few times to help flush the sediment out. Do
this 'til the water comes out clear. You may have to dismantle the
valve, if there are large chunks of scale coming loose. 3.) Remove the
sacrificial anode, which looks like a plug in the top of the HWT.
Inspect; it should be almost as long as the water heater. Replace if any
portion of it is thinner than about 1/4";. 4.) With anode out, shine
flashlight inside of tank to inspect for rust. If you see a lot of rust,
it's probably time to replace it...before it fails. Water heaters are
normally glass- or ceramic-lined to prevent corrosion; this is also what
the anode's for. The heat of the water hastens corrosion, once it
starts. 5.) Open up the element access panels. Disconnect one wire from
each of the elements. With a volt-ohm-meter, check to see that both
elements are still functional (the resistance across the terminals
should be ??? ohms, but if your meter peaks out with exceptionally high
ohms, it's time to replace the element). 6.) Wrap everything up. Turn on
the water. Open a hot water faucet to let the air out. When HWT is full,
turn on electricity. Wait a while for the water to all heat up. If you
are replacing a water heater, install a special pan underneath designed
to catch water should the HWT develop a leak (or pop off the pop-off
valve). Have it drain to a safe place (outside; floor drain).
Top
On demand hot water system? from Noah Lamy The relative
energy efficiency of these systems depends a lot on other factors such
as the amount of heat loss from a more traditional storage tank system
or the length of time hot water is stored before it is used. In practice
they require a good deal more energy per volume of heated water than
conventional systems and they cannot usually provide enough hot water
for more than one fixture at a time. The traditional storage tank type
of water heater can be quite efficient if the tank and the hot water
pipes are properly insulated.
The on-demand type
heaters have their uses in the appropriate situation. I have found them
practical and efficient in situations where hot water is used only
occasionally such as in some shop situations or where a fixture is at a
considerable distance from a traditional storage tank water heater, such
as in a guest house or pool house. They can also be handy if you are
adding hot water to a structure that has been cold-water-only and the
cost or inconvenience of adding a complete hot water piping system will
be prohibitive.
Gas HWT Height ?
Gas HWT have to be at least 18" off the floor because combustible fumes
*sink* and for air intake.
Low Flush Toilet
Problems -
Till the year 2001 there was a lot of consumer dissatisfaction with 1.6
GAL toilets. The manufactures had to design and build them to meet a
government water conservation deadline and in many cases simply didn't
produce a good flushing 1.6 gpf toilet initially. They blamed the
Congress. The consumer blamed the manufacturer or plumber. Whatever - we
were stuck (no pun intended) with 'em. Some in our trade (who think
about this kind of thing), even proposed about using 2 1/2"; drain pipes
instead of 3"; main drains. That would make for a higher level of water
(think cross section) carrying the waste in the pipe. This points up the
first problem. The W/Cs were designed and tested on modern plumbing.
That is, 3" plastic drains - not older 4" to 6" cast iron. There is very
little water (again think cross section) at the bottom of a 6" cast iron
pipe to move waste along . Low flush W/Cs do work better in new homes.
Other situations that I've seen that effect low flush W/Cs are; where
the toilet is in the house and what other plumbing fixtures are
available to wash down the drain pipes. Toilets on the end of long runs
to the building drain outfall are most likely to plug up. It's important
to keep a CONSTANT 1/4"; per foot grade. With plastic drain pipes they
must be *hung* every 4 feet and it wouldn't hurt to actually look at
them any time you're under the house to see that they have not begun to
sag. *Guest* toilets tend to plug up more often than *master* baths -
there is no shower washing the drain down. I really think the code needs
to address this issue in pipe design. I know that I am aware of where,
and in what order I decide to plug in the drains in the new houses I
plumb. It makes a difference where the CWM drain goes now, and the code
does not say ,well, %#~ about it!
MORE on Low Flush
Toilet Problems?
You might buy a better flushing toilet for your situation. Some air
assisted toilet flush well. When the low gallonage gravity toilets first
came out I replaced a couple of new Kohler Wellworth Lites with the
Am.Std. air assist toilet with good results. That was then and this is
now. Today most brands of gravity toilets flush well (including
the redesigned Kohler Wellworth models). Power assisted toilets tend to
be noisy and frankly, today I definitely do not recommend
power assisted toilets.
By the end of 1999 (most brands of U.S. made) gravity toilets
manufactured were flushing fine. At the end of 2000 my guess is that
over 85% of 1.6gpf toilets flushed well. Today go with (buy) gravity
toilets (made in America). Keep life simple.
MORE - MORE on
Low Flush Toilet Problems?
In my experience of selling and using toilets, I have found that the
Atlas model of Universal Rundle (now owned by Crane) flushes great.
These toilets flush better than just "well", they flush great. Also, I
have tried using many brands of pressure assisted toilets. Many of them
have ";dry bowl";. This means that the air directs the water into only
parts of the bowl surface leaving solid waste in the bowl if it does not
land in the right place. The only way to make it move is to find an
implement to move the waste to the right bowl area. Answering the
question of ";Can you fix the toilet to use more water?"; The answer is
likely: Your toilet may have a small round Styrofoam piece on the
flapper chain, move the piece along the chain until the flapper closes
more slowly. Also bend the float arm upward so the ballcock valve allows
more water into the tank. There may also be an adjustment screw on the
ballcock valve to keep it open a bit longer. The reason that you need to
make these adjustments is that the major manufacturers were forced to
rush to market using existing molds and technology without time to
develop other strategies that make using 1.6 gallons successful. The
reason that the Universal Rundle Atlas model (and now many others) work
without being power assisted is that they have taken the opportunity to
develop the proper technology years ago. The entire toilet: flush valve,
ballcock assembly, water tank and bowl are all designed to work together
for maximum efficiency.
Toilet Leaks at
Base in Moved Toilet Location or New Floor Install ?
Is the top of the
flange even (or close to even) with the finished floor? If it to low -
then use two wax rings. One regular wax ring on the bottom and one (or
more) with the plastic horn insert on top. ) I have seen leaks like you
describe if the glued flange is not really glued in all the way. Take a
look at that - if your floor and flange is flush. Sometimes you need to
shim the toilet if the floor is uneven or the flange is to high.
High Pressure
Makes My Toilet *Run* (with new ballcock)?
If your water pressure is so high that it leaks past a Fluidmaster 400A
or another new ballcock - then you NEED a pressure reducing valve. Other
water pipes, connectors, clothes washing machine hoses and your water
heater could leak or break. Best to get a pressure regulator if your
pressure to the house is more than 60 pounds (80 is code throughout most
of the U.S.).
Sealing the W/C
tank to the Bowl?
get the best results by using the large donut gasket of the type that is
square cut inside to match the shape of the nut on the bottom of the
tank. Sealant will not help. Tighten the bolts down evenly to the point
where the tank is snug on the bowl. Over tightening will break the bowl
and/or tank.
Top
When I Run The
CWM My Toilet Bubbles/Overflows or My Shower Overflows?
When the lowest plumbing fixture in the house overflows when another
fixture (like a CWM) is draining; the septic tank needs to be pumped,
there is a break in the sewer pipe outside the house or the main drain
is plugged somewhere.
MORE: When I Run
The CWM My Toilet Bubbles/Overflows or My Shower Overflows?
The washing machine line could be connected to close to the "suds rinse
zone", meaning the washer waste ties into the waste or soil line of
another fixture to close downstream from the problem fixture. What is
happening is the water is rushing by the suds at a high velocity,
pushing ahead of the suds. Because the fixture is the closest place of
relief, the suds will come up into the fixture, even a toilet. The code
requires that a washing machine, kitchen sink, shower, and dishwasher
line be connected at least 5' downstream from any fixture branch. This
could be just one of many possibilities for the bubbling and
backup.-Bill Dwight, Harry Dwight and son P&H, Atlantic Highlands, New
Jersey (Billpipe36@aol.com)
Slow Shower Drain
?As a
plumber, I see plugged drains when *Liquid Plumber* type products don't
work - though these products shouldn't hurt the pipes. Care should be
taken when using them around kitchen sink/dishwasher drains. I have seen
them backup into the DWM. If the chemicals don't work - then try renting
a small power snake. This WILL do the job. Those little hand drum snakes
at the hardware store just are not up to a 2"; shower drain. BTW, I've
never seen any damaged pipes caused by drain cleaners. Older hands than
myself say they don't like drain cleaners because the chemicals make
their snakes brittle - that sounds like crystallization - I've just
never seen it myself and I'm skeptical. There are a bazillon gallons of
that stuff sold and I think that it would be obvious if it was a
problem. I just don't think it (drain cleaners) work in most cases.
How Do I Get A
Snake Down a Tub Drain?
To get a snake in the drain you take off the *overflow plate*. That's
the chrome thing on the tub wall with two screws. When you pull it out -
two sections of the stopper mechanism will come with it. It's hinged so
it will bend through the hole. Chances are that hair caught on the end
of this mechanism is clogging the drain- you might not even need to
snake it. BTW - A snake will not go through the drain hole at the bottom
of the tub.
Do Unused Drains
Dry Up and Get Rough Inside?
Yes, drain pipes do dry out and get real rough. Will it clear up with
use? Maybe.
Leaking Bathtub
Drain Right at the Drain Hole?
It is replaced from the top, that is sitting in the tub. Hopefully you
have *crosshairs* or a couple of little *nibs* inside the drain flange
(the chrome part). That's the part that unscrews. The tool is called a
*pickle* - it has a fork at one end and crossed slots at the other. Or a
*dumbell* which is tapered and has crossed slots at both ends. Or just
use pliers and stick the handle end down into the drain, catch the cross
hairs or nibs and unscrew. Clean off the old plumbers putty. Slide a new
washer between the underside of the tub and the *shoe* (part with female
threads) and put putty around the chrome flange and screw it back in.
Noah Lamy (noahlamy@dorsai.org points out that he uses an internal
pipe wrench for flanges missing the crosshairs.
Can Clogged Vents
Stop Up Drains?
Yes and no. A toilet with no vent may not flush the contents out of the
bowl, but any other drain will work without a vent. (NOTE: the code is
that all fixtures shall be vented). Only twice in 15 years has the vents
been the cause of a drain backup. In one case it was roofers who stuffed
the old roofing material down the vents and the other was just a stray
piece of wood. In both cases the material made its way down into the
drain pipe and had to be removed. No amount of *vent cleaning* would
have done any good.
Leak Somewhere in
the Plumbing in my Shower/Bath?
from Noah Lamy
(noahlamy@dorsai.org
- I see this all the time and nine times out of ten it's the grout or a
bad pan under the shower. Before anything else I try to determine if the
leak is constant or if it is periodic. If it is constant there is a good
chance the leak is in the pressurized water lines. Usually the leak is
periodic so I have a series of tests that I perform to track it down.
Sometimes a quick visual inspection of the tile will show that the grout
is shot and is the most likely cause of the leak but I will often
complete the rest of my tests to be sure. What I do is first fill the
tub half way and drain it. This will tell me if it's in the drain pipe.
For a shower with a lead or vinyl pan I block the drain and fill the
base with water. This will tell me if the pan leaks. Then I remove the
shower head and put a 1/2" cap on the shower arm and turn on the
pressure. This will tell me if there is a leak in the pipe between the
shower valve and the shower arm. If no leak has shown up by then I tend
to think the leak is water bleeding through the tile due to bad grouting
or that water is escaping the shower and going down through flaws in the
bathroom floor. I can check this by taping up a plastic dropcloth inside
the shower covering all the tile work and having the customer use the
shower normally for a day or two. If the leak has suddenly disappeared
then we know it coming through the tile. A few cups of water on the
floor will show a leak through bad tile or a cracked floor base. If none
of this works, it's time to open the walls. Thanks Noah, I agree
100%. Much of this detective work can be done by the owner/renter which
saves time and money ... Hill
Connect Sump Pump
Outflow to Septic?
It is illegal to connect any rain or ground water to the sewer. IF,
however, you do hookup - at the very least put a trap in the in the line
to keep sewer gas out of the house.
The drain pipes
under the kitchen sink and the garbage disposal keep coming loose.
Don't mix
PVC washers and nuts with metal washers and nuts. Keep them consistent.
The plastic washers (ferrules) go with the plastic pipe and washers. The
thicker side faces the nut and the thinner side the *cup*. The metal
pipe uses metal nuts and square cut rubber washers. Also, make sure that
all the pipes fit down into the next pipe as deeply as they can go.
Gray Water ?
Graywater use is needed! I want it for my yard here on Vashon Island, WA
where during the summer we have to let the grass die for lack of
water...BUT there are no approved systems yet. States like CA are
leading the way and I'm not sure if they have an approved system yet and
if so, if it is affordable. As far as *sanitary* I just don't know. I
think that the water will have to be treated in some fashion. I have
been in some really disgusting lakes under houses that was all
tub/shower water and dried laundry water looks like cakes of hard dry
soap.
Top
Moen Faucet
Repair? Moen
faucets have cartridges that can be replaced. There is a clip (on top)
that has to be pulled up and out before the cartridge can be replaced.
Often it seems stuck as if it will not come out. Some replacement
cartridges provide a plastic square to turn the cartridge in the valve
body 1/4 turn. This breaks it free from the valve grease that it is
stuck in. If, after replacing the unit ,the hot and cold are reversed,
re-install with the cartridge turned 180 degrees.
Delta Faucet
Repair? You
can buy a Delta single handle faucet repair kit with a tool for maybe
five to seven bucks. It has all the instructions and is very easy to do.
The Faucet CLUNKS
When We Turn It On ?
99% of the time when you hear a clunk in any pipe when you turn a faucet
on/off - it's a loose washer in the faucet. When you take it apart be
sure you get the old washer and a screw. If you don't - turn the water
back on and flush out the missing part.
The bathroom
faucet does not drip UNLESS the toilet is flushed or some other faucet
is turned on.
Could be a loose washer. The pressure holds it down when no other faucet
is running water and the lower pressure let's it rise up a bit when
other water is used.
Claw Foot Tub
Faucets?
These faucets are special to CFTs they have 2 3/8"; centers. Some units
have 1/2"; and some have 3/4"; water connections at the back. The 3/4";
needs special CFT supply pipes. Most older faucets are not code and it
is still easy to buy non-code faucets. The code is that the faucet
spout must have a gap of at least 1"; between the top of the tub rim
and the bottom of the spout - that's so bath water in the tub cannot
siphon back into the drinking water supply. A great place to buy new
clawfoot faucets is at
PlumbingWorld.
Repairing
(garden) hose bibbs?
IMHO unless the HB is new enough to match the insides with the exact
same brand, model et - replace the darn thing. You can try , but , I
just don't seem to have permanent success when I just repair them. Now
to replace them- if they come through the wall under the house then they
can be unscrewed or unsoldered from the crawl space. If it is above the
floor a *window* has to opened in the wall. Just unscrewing it from
outside will often result in a broken pipe in the wall.
Top
Sweating Bronze
Valves and Sweating in General.
Soldering valves to copper pipe requires a little more heat to sweat
because of the thicker walls. But sweating copper is really all the same
... Scour both the outside of the pipe and the inside of the *cup* of
the fitting to be soldered. Flux them both (make sure not to touch the
cleaned copper with your hands because the natural oils of your hands
can cause the soldered joints to not be "perfect") and apply heat all
around the cup. I then put my flame on one spot (usually the bottom) and
apply the solder to the opposite side until the solder flows to the heat
(make sure to not overheat). The solder always runs to the heat. You can
over heat it - so once the solder flows around to the heat - stop - and
clean it up with a dry rag (I prefer a rag made from cotton). If you use
a wet rag it can make the job look rather sloppy but that will also
work.
Cutting Cast Iron
and Plastic/Cast Connections ?You
cut the cast iron with a reciprocal saw like a Milwaukee Sawzall all.
Use heavy metal blades like Lenox 614R type. I start with the six
inchers. It will take several to get through the side of the pipe . Once
you have made a cut into the pipe - it will go faster. You'll need the
long metal blades to finish the job. At first-it will seem like it will
never cut it-but it will. Use Mission or Fernco No Flex couplings- one
on each side-to connect the plastic and cast iron. Do not forget the
vents!
Noah Lamy
(noahlamy@dorsai.org
adds: In most situations I use a Ridgid rachet cast iron cutter on iron
waste pipes, but sometimes conditions are too confined to use that tool.
Then I use a mini-grinder with a diamond wheel (they're $100 each but
one lasts a lifetime) to cut as much as I can reach with that tool and
finish the cut with the sawzall and a grit-edge blade. BTW the grinder
with the diamond wheel is terrific for cutting tile, concrete and brick.
A little dusty though.
Q: Adding a new
Drain to Cast Iron Pipe Where There is a Cleanout?
A couple of ways to go. That *little rect. box* is a cleanout plug. It's
brass. If you can unscrew it great - if not cut - off the square with a
Sawzall- all and you will find that it's hollow. Then cut from the
center out to the threads in pie sections. Peel the plug out of the
female threads. If you're lucky it will be 3". Screw in a 3" male
adapter and kick on out... However it may be 3 1/2" which is no longer
made. Use a 5" by 3" Fernco bell with the 5" over the hub of the
cleanout. Bush down with a 3"; by 2"bush in the 3" end of the Fernco and
your home again. The other way is to take a section out of the cast
pipe, use Fernco's around a PVC or ABS Sanitary Tee (whatever your state
uses).That *6" iron pipe* is most likely 4" cast. You can cut it with a
Sawzall-all or snap it with a *rachet cutter* that is made to cut cast
iron. I bought one for $340 - so you might want to rent or beg/borrow
one. BE SURE that if you take a section out of the cast, that the upper
section of the pipe is supported so whole thing does not come crashing
down.
Is Replacing a
Tub a Big Job?
It is a JOB. A couple of suggestions... while you're at it replace the
waste and overflow and if possible the tub/shower faucet. Second, you
can get tub surrounds in two pieces that will fit through doors and
Three (I like the Sterling brand surrounds), American Standard makes an
*Americast* tub that has the properties of a cast iron - but without the
weight. I personally prefer Kohler cast iron over Americast as I think
it's more durable. BTW you can break out the old cast tub with a sledge
hammer and cut up a metal tub with a Sawzall all.
Using Tubing
Cutter Tips
Hold the cutters square to the pipe and be sure the tubing is in ALL the
rollers. I find when I begin to *thread* the copper - it's because I
don't have the tubing all the way inside and in all the rollers. Let the
cutters do the cutting. Over tightening wears out the cutting wheel and
squishes the tubing out of round. For tight spots they make *knuckle*
cutters - or use a small triangle saw. Actually - these days I'm using a
Makita cordless recipro saw to cut most of my *in place* copper.
Top
Will Natural Gas
Corrode Galvanized Pipe?
In the old days, sometimes after a long time. This was generally due to
the poor quality of galvanizing. Today using galvanized pipe generally
presents no threat. Plumbers tend to use black pipe with gas for two
main reasons. One is that it costs less than galvanized (except I've
seen some home centers charging more for black which must be because of
consumers lack of knowledge of "cost"). The other is that if galvanized
pipes are used for water then using black for gas distinguishes the two
uses. Imagine using galvanized for both gas and water in the same house?
That could present a problem in people distinguishing which pipes are
carrying what. I like to suggest painting galvanized pipes used for gas
yellow. Today there exists flexible stainless steel gas pipe and it
always yellow (that I've ver seen) so painting piping that is for gas
yellow seems like a good idea. If pipe is in the ground it will tend to
corrode faster (depends on the soil conditions). Many areas do not allow
galvanized pipe underground for gas piping and factory coated steel pipe
must be used. In some areas plastic pipe is allowed underground (with
electric wire above it to allow for locating of that plastic gas pipe as
well as warning tape above that pipe as well).
Leaking Steel
Union ? In
WA State gas unions are not allowed inside buildings. There are left and
right hand couplings and nipples that take the place of unions. No
sealant is required on unions faces - the seal is made by the beveled
male/female surfaces. Also do not use regular teflon tape. There is a
separate type of tape for gas. Really, I think TU555 is the best
sealant.
Gas HWT Height ?
Gas HWT have to be at least 18"; off the floor because combustible fumes
*sink* and for air intake.
Top
Garbage Disposal
Repair?
Garbage Disposal problems can be plumbing, electrical or appliance. If
the disposal doesn't work at all - no *hum* or any sound, then push the
red (reset) button on the bottom of the disposal. If that doesn't work,
check the breaker in the electrical panel. If the unit *hums* but
doesn't turn then you can try unsticking it.. Some units come with a
wrench that you can use to turn the cutter flywheel from the bottom. (
An allen wrench will work). Or, use a *plumber's friend* , broom handle-
something with a handle, and stick it in the disposal and try to turn
the cutting wheel around. In effect - unstick it. If the unit doesn't
respond to the above, it's time for an appliance repair man or replace
the unit.
Garbage
Disposals/Dishwashers and Septic Systems?
It's my understanding that having a disposal is like having another
person adding to the load on the septic system. So... are you currently
under utilizing your system, over using or about right? Dishwasher on a
septic system? I don't think really matters. If I had a dishwasher - I'd
run it into a disposal even if I did not use the disposal for anything
else.
Top
The dishwasher
does not completely drain itself.
Dishwashers are supposed to leave some water in the unit at the end of
each cycle. This is to keep the element type heater, used for drying the
dishes, from burning up. It's a lot like a water heater element. If a
lot of water stays in the sump - the drain could be clogged. A partially
clogged air gap will do the same thing. The air gap is that little
chrome dome on the kitchen counter.
Top
Copper Water Pipe
Vs Plastic ?
IMHO copper rules in most situations (unless you have low pH or
aggressive water) ! Over time, the plastic can sometimes *sag* and
possibly get brittle. If it needs to be repaired or altered in any way,
the pipe will have to be glued and you will have no water 'til it dries.
Copper-you can solder, turn it on, test it and know that all is well.
Any plastic to metal connection is weak, such as where the HWT
connection is made. Mice and rats love many plastics. They chew on it to
keep their teeth from growing through their lower jaw.
Sizing Water
Pipes? If
you lived alone, only using one plumbing fixture at a time - correct
pipe size wouldn't be a big issue. However when you are in the shower
and someone flushes the toilet - it is a big deal. The basic rule is
*two fixtures on a 1/2"; pipe*. You need min. 3/4"; incoming cold pipe
for a one bath house. Just running 3/4"; to each fixture in the house
won't hurt, but there will be no real gain. To size a water distribution
system, get a copy of your state code book. It will spell it out in
terms of beginning pressure, the furthest fixture from the meter and the
number of fixtures in the house. Each fixture is worth *so many units*
and you are allowed *so many units* for each size pipe as you get
further from the meter.
What Type Pipe
from Water Meter to House?
If the run from the house to the street is short (under 60 feet) I'd use
*Type L * soft copper. It is less likely to break and it has no fittings
in the ground except at each end of the pipe. I'd also put pipe (foam)
insulation) around the copper run. For longer runs my next choice would
be schedule 40 PVC pipe. Not a bad choice at all. I would not use
flexible plastic - that is black *poly* pipe. It comes in a roll.
Way to soft and the metal clamps and hard plastic (or metal) connectors
will break over time. I repair them weekly.
My Black Poly Pipe Pet Peeve My experience with black poly pipe
(comes in a roll) is that it leaks. It is too soft. Hard surfaces
(rocks) rub holes in it and where ever there is a transition to another
type of pipe or an elbow it will leak there - because of the hard
adapter, radiator clamps and the soft pipe. Schedule 40 PVC or copper is
the best way to go with water mains.
Burying water pipes outside ? Find out what the freeze depth is
in your area and bury the pipes below that level. Here (Seattle area) it
is about 2 feet. Use schedule 40 PVC for cold water and CVPC for hot (if
you are running that out also).
Protect Well From
Freezing
Written by Mike Nelson from the Education and Information Network of the
Washington State Energy Office. Copyright (c) Seattle Times Company
9/23/95
Most household water
systems are enclosed in a well house or a well box. An effective
enclosure would be well insulated and have a built-in heat source, such
as a heat lamp. Some enclosures are built below ground level with walls
below the frost line to keep them from freezing.
But many well
enclosures lack insulation or a heat source. Modifications to your
system, remodeling, wear and tear from use, wet or missing insulation,
torn weatherstripping, or improper design from the outset - any or all
of these conditions could put your well at risk.
Plan ahead. Here are
some options:
1. Do nothing. If
you don't make any changes to your well house, you may face the prospect
of frozen pipes again, but you can always turn on a faucet when
temperatures drop. Moving water - a good drip will do - is far less apt
to freeze. Turn up the flow at the first sign of a slowing drip rate.
This option is a
good "panic" measure, but it's definitely not good water stewardship.
You'll be using energy to kick the pump on more often than necessary and
wasting water at the same time.
2. Put an
incandescent (not flourescent) light bulb in the well house. Place it
near the pump, and leave it on during cold weather. A 100-watt bulb
makes a great little space heater. Make sure the light can't get knocked
over or set something on fire.
This option provides
a fair degree of security, but it's not an energy-efficient alternative.
If the light stays on 24 hours a day through the winter months, you'll
spend about $3-$5 a month.
3. Inspect your well
house or box before the weather turns bad. Make sure there are no drafty
holes, broken windows or missing insulation. Put heat tape on the pump
and plumbing. (Follow directions on the package.) Heat tape made
specifically for this purpose is available at most hardware stores. Plug
in the heat tape. Initial costs may be $10-$30, depending on how much
exposed pipe you have. Heat tape will be pretty reliable as long as the
power stays on.
4. Weatherize the
well house. Install new weatherstripping, caulk and repair the roof. Add
insulation if you didn't have it before. Put in new insulation, if the
existing material has been damaged.
Install a
thermostatically controlled space heater. Set it at 45-50 degrees. The
heater may or may not use more electricity than the heat tape or light
bulb approach, depending on the weather. It will be more reliable.
With any of these
options, check the well system during cold snaps. If you are worried
about power outages, learn to drain your storage tanks and how to
re-prime your water system.
You might also
purchase a safe propane or kerosene space heater. Use it on those very
cold nights when storm fronts roll through and knock trees across power
lines. Just remember it's not a good idea to operate unvented combustion
heaters in an inhabited space.
Repairing
(garden) hose bibbs?
IMHO unless the HB is new enough to match the insides with the exact
same brand, model et - replace the darn thing. You can try , but , I
just don't seem to have permanent success when I just repair them. Now
to replace them- if they come through the wall under the house then they
can be unscrewed or unsoldered from the crawl space. If it is above the
floor a *window* has to opened in the wall. Just unscrewing it from
outside will often result in a broken pipe in the wall.
Polybutylene Pipe?From:
"Garold (Gary) Stone " (grstone@clark.net)
LATEST NEWS: A
Washington Post article on June 15, page F4, reports that homeowners who
had polybutylene plastic pipes breaks before August 21, 1995, have only
until August 21, 1996 to file a claim for reimbursement from the
Consumer Plumbing Recovery Center at area 800 867-4698. About 37,000
homeowners have had their polybutylene plumbing replaced so far, under
the terms of the national class action settlement.
On November 8, 1995
a national 950 million dollar Polybutylene Pipe settlement was approved,
in which similar suits across 21 states were joined with Cox vs Shell
and Hoechst Celanese, including Spencer vs. Shell in Alabama. Eljer
Industries and Dupont have agreed to contribute to the fund, bringing
all major parties into the settlement.
A detailed article
in the Washington Post, Friday November 10th, says this settlement is
more generous than earlier proposed in Cox v. Shell. Homeowners will
nonetheless be given an opportunity to opt out of the new terms of this
settlement.
It will take about 4
weeks for the new settlement agreement and claims procedures to be
mailed to those who have already registered.
If you have not
already done so, you should register to receive information about the
Cox v. Shell settlement by calling (800) 876-4698.
It would seem this
settlement takes into account a suit filed in Camden New Jersey earlier
by the Prudential Insurance Company to ensure that Cox v. Shell would
not prevent the defendants from reimbursing insurance companies.
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Rust in
Dishwasher ?
There is no way to clean rust out of old galvanized pipes. Most DWM s
have a screen where the water connects to the machine. You access it
through the lower front panel. Another solution would be to put a filter
on just the hot water pipe to the DWM. If you replace the pipe - use
copper - and connect to the old galvanized with a dialectic union.
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Rattling Pipes?
I find several reasons why pipes rattle. The most common is that the
washer in the faucet or valve is loose. Another is that the pipe is
touching another pipe or hard surface in the wall (OUCH!). And for hot
water rattles, the energy saving nipples that screw in the top of the
water heater, sometimes make a serious rattling noise when you turn on
any hot water tap. They have a ball in them that acts like a check
valve. Under a DWM it could be that the soft copper water supply is
hitting a hard surface or the machine itself is not tight in the opening
and is jumping around.
The Faucet CLUNKS
When We Turn It On ?
99% of the time when you hear a clunk in any pipe when you turn a faucet
on/off - it's a loose washer in the faucet. When you take it apart be
sure you get the old washer and a screw. If you don't - turn the water
back on and flush out the missing part.
Anti Hammer
Device? Up
until 10/15 years ago we put in anti hammer tubes. The *powers that be*
found that the tubes got water logged over time. So - it's no longer
code. In commercial installs, spring loaded devices are used especially
at the end of long runs or at the end of a series of fixtures like
urinals. To replace the air in the anti hammers, drain down the water in
the whole house with the faucets turned on. The idea is that when you
turn the water back on it will compress the air at the highest point at
the end of each pipe. That's what the *powers that be* realized that
plumbers were not plumbing for - and home owners would not do.
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Shower Stall on
Concrete Floor Smells?
If you can see water in the trap , then the trap is holding water and
you know it's working. Even if the trap is undersized (1 1/2"; instead
of 2";) it would work. So the problem is probably a leaking drain pipe,
the shower drain itself (the part that is connected to the shower stall)
or it's leaking where the two connect. Can't fix the pipe or the drain
itself without pulling the shower out. But, if you can see a rubber or
lead ring around the pipe as it sticks up into the shower drain - that
can be removed and a new one put in. This is a pretty common practice in
concrete shower installs.
Garbage Disposal
Smells? Put
ice cubes in the disposal (about 1/2 way), run the disposal, flush out
with cold water. Next put 1/2 a lemon and grind it up.
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